Basement laundry pump installation

View attachment View attachment I have installed a laundry pump coming off the utility sink in the basement Click to expand Yes, the laundry basin is a zoeller kit with sealed basin. Only the laundry water goes into it. Prior to installing the laundry water went into the storm sump, which after a few days smells bad and eventually clogged the sump pump with lint. No garage attached to house, but the existing vent pipe is routed through an upstairs closet into the attic.

I could branch a vent off this, but it would have to tee off right next to the main pipe in the closet, go through the floor, and back to the laundry basin. Would that work? A vent needs slope downwards in case it gets any condensation, or rain or whatever that may get in the pipe so that it can drain and not block any air movement. As long as the pipe is the proper size and has the required slope when horizontal, it can be pretty much as long as you need. What is that 2" CI pipe coming out of the wall.

It looks like an old washing machine drain connection. Do you know if its been disconnected beyond the wall? Though all vents must go above the roof facia, since this laundry pump is essentially gray water, no septic use , running a pipe out the side wall of the home, not under a window and at least 3 feet from a window, you'll probably be good just being a few feet above the ground and top it off with a degree bends.

A non-return valve, which comes already assembled on the discharge rubber connector, prevents back flow into the unit. This unit has been designed with a vent connection on the lid. All plumbing codes require connection to a vent system. Please note that the vent system should be a two-way air vent. The Saniswift is a compact unit with attractive rounded contours that fits neatly into tight spaces.

The Saniswift has been certified to American and Canadian Standards. A tip to consider is keeping the pump far from the inlet and you can choose to place it behind the discharge pipe. The aim here is to have the float switch far away from the inlet pipe to avoid heavy matter from directly clogging the float switch.

Here, make sure that when you put the basin lid on, the bolt holes are parallel to each other. Also, the pipes coming out of the sump basin should properly fit the holes on the lid cover.

The cover will usually have three holes, one for a vent pipe, another for a drainage pipe and one for the electrical cords. With the basin lid, you are provided with kits which include a gasket, three grommets, and screws.

The grommets will fit the three holes on the lid, two for the pipes and one for the power cords. Place the gasket in the inner lip basin cover since this ensures that it is completely sealed. Before you rip off the gasket make sure that the tank lip is clean for it to stick properly. A point to note is to keep the cords from sagging inside the sump tank you can tie the cords to the breather pipe to keep it from interfering with the operations of the float switch.

You will also get three more gaskets for the different holes on the basin cover. With gaskets, you are assured that no gas will escape the cover to your basement. In step five, we will install the grommets around the pipes and cords. The cord grommet has two holes which are split into either side and this enables the cords to slip through the hole easily. After, push the grommet firmly on the cover holes until they stick to the basin lid.

For the pipes grommets, make sure you place the gasket first before the grommet. After, fit the bolts and washers provided to you by the manufacturer on the holes which you will find on the basin cover. To protect the screws and bolts from rust, you can use the anti-seize lubricant which you can find at your home hardware. The check valve mainly stops wastewater from flowing back to the tank. On top of the check valve, you can also fix a ball valve. This provides you with a point to disconnect the flow of sludge while stopping the waste from reversing back to the check valve.

This comes in handy if you want to repair or replace your pump. With the above information, if you follow the step by step instructions on how to install a sewage ejector pump in a basement, you will realize how easy it is. Also, put into consideration that a sewage pump can last for at least 8 years and the check valve plus ball valve can last for about 5 years. Therefore, to be on the safe side, you should make a complete replacement every 5 years or when the need arises.

How Does a Water Pump Work. How to Install a Sump Pump. How to Replace a Water Pump. How to Prime a Water Pump. How to Install a Submersible Well Pump. How to Diagnose a Bad Water Pump. How Much is a Water Pump for a Car. You are so interesting! So great to find somebody with some genuine thoughts on this subject. This web site is one thing that is needed on the web, someone with some originality!

Your email address will not be published. Skip to content Posted in Blog. Posted by By Harry July 1, 2 Comments. By Harry! Last Updated: July 01, How Can You Do This? Can You Install an Ejector Pump on your own?

Maintenance of a Sewage Ejector Pump. Immerse the ejector pump from the sump bin and properly clean it using a hose to remove all the waste. Then, check its oil level to ensure that it is well lubricated.